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In this series Claire Shaeffer showcases traditional Chanel trims as well as trims that were inspired by Chanel. In the second class in this series Claire teaches construction methods to create and apply these trims.

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COUTURE SEWING: MAKING DESIGNER TRIMS

By the end of the 1950s Coco Chanel had found her niche with the classic cardigan jacket. She introduced her iconic braided trim in 1956 and popularized the trimmed jacket by giving it a new look each year. In this series Claire Shaeffer showcases traditional Chanel trims as well as trims that were inspired by Chanel. In the second class in this series Claire teaches construction methods to create and apply these trims.

Chapter 1 – Elements of Designer Trim   

Topstitching:

Topstitching is any stitching on the face side of a garment. In this lesson Claire demonstrates a variety of topstitching options. Whether single or multiple rows, matching or contrasting fabric, they are simple and can be used to add function or decorative embellishment to your garment.

Applied Trims:

Applied trim can be any decorative trim placed on the face side of the garment. It can be made with a multitude of materials including fabrics, braid, leather, fur, or feathers among many others. Claire demonstrates a variety of handmade and hand-sewn trims including braid, ribbon, embroidery, and Prairie Point.

Applied Bands: 

Made with contrasting or self-fabric, Claire teaches a variety of cuts and applications for applied bands. Next, discover the couture method for finishing jacket edges. The hand-stitched method accommodates a lining that has been quilted to the jacket sections and is different from standard home-sewing methods.

Piping: 

Piping is trim sewn between two layers of fabric. It can be flat or corded and is made from a variety of materials. In this class Claire demonstrates an haute couture method for placing piping styles from flat to corded to fringed at the edges of a garment.Learn how to add iconic Chanel finishing details and how they affect the overall garment finish.

Seamed Trims: 

Seamed trims can be a simple selvage or band sewn to the edge of a garment or they can be a more complex inset. Learn how to attach seamed trims as both straight and decorative insets.

Facing and Lining Trims: 

Lining and blouse fabrics are frequently used as trim on Chanel jackets. They can be used for flaps, collar facings, and lapels. In some Chanel originals, the lining was extended beyond the finished edge to create flat piping. Claire demonstrates this extended lining technique, and the use of lining as trim on a turned-back cuff.

Chapter 2 – Construction Methods

Topstitching: 

In class two Claire demonstrates construction methods for applying trims. In this first lesson, after a brief recap of topstitching examples, Claire shows the supplies and equipment used in trim construction and shares applications tips.

Seams: 

Learn how to manage seam allowances, tame bulky corners, and how to best approach a reverse seam and a reverse seam corner for an elegant trim finish.

Bias: 

Claire shows how to mark, cut and join bias strips for use as trim.

Cord-Filled Piping: 

Learn a couture method for making corded piping. Claire discusses various materials used in piping construction and the impact they have on the ease of construction and the look of the trim.

French Tack: 

Claire explains the benefits of a French Tack and shows how to create one.

Crochet Trims: 

Learn to make a crochet chain and suggested uses for one in trim applications.

Shaping: 

Shaping is an essential element for trims. It allows them to be placed around collars or curved edges. Claire demonstrates how to shape ribbon and fabric appliqué.

Finish Trim Ends: 

Finishing the trim is one of the most important elements in trim application. In this lesson learn to beautifully finish ribbon and gimp as well as self-fabric. Claire will show how to bury trim ends in the center seam and how to finish the underlaps.

Button Placement: 

This lesson offers a variety of button placement and style samples.

Three-Piece Sleeve Pattern: 

A three-piece sleeve allows for a better fit and for a decorative vent to be placed in a more visible position on the garment. In this lesson Claire demonstrates how to create a three-piece sleeve pattern from a two-piece sleeve muslin and how to adjust that pattern to add a vent.

Basic Sleeve Construction: 

Learn the couture steps for sleeve construction from thread-tracing the seams and marking the cut fabric through considerations for a self-fabric applied trim. Claire teaches how to interface the hemline, miter the corner, finish the hem, add lining and quilt and finish the lining hem.

Meet the Instructor

Claire B. Shaeffer is an internationally recognized expert in construction techniques for haute couture, expensive ready-to-wear, and historic designs. She has been a designer for Vogue Patterns, a frequent contributor to Threads magazine, and has authored numerous books. She lives in Palm Springs, California.

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